tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-63838968853789619042024-03-13T21:13:59.005+00:00Tool ChimpTool Chimphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03370909545388377892noreply@blogger.comBlogger42125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6383896885378961904.post-26137381307674062892017-12-13T17:36:00.000+00:002017-12-20T13:31:18.365+00:00Switching tackElectric Power Steering<br />
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As part of the implementation of the Vauxhall Corsa C Electric Power Assisted Steering (EPAS) into the car, I need to consider switch gear. The ignition switch only carries signal currents, indicating the Body Control Module (BCM) the switch position. The electrical ‘heavy lifting’ is handled by BCM controlled relays. I need to retain the ignition switch as-is, so I will have to find a way of replicating this function. I could wire a relay for ignition and engine cranking to the ignition switch, but there are other areas to consider:<br />
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Control Stalks<br />
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The Corsa C uses a series of resistor ladders in the control stalks (indicator, main beam, cruise control (where fitted), wiper and washer).
I managed to track down the following internal schematic from the Locost Builders forum.
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S229.1 Switch - High beam <br />
S229.2 Switch - Turn signal <br />
S229.3 Switch - Cruise control <br />
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Basically, this results in a resistance for each switch position which is nice and simple (read cheap) when engineering the switches themselves, but adds some complexity to the electronics. The control stalks appear to be physically interchangeable with the Vectra B counterparts, so it is possible to retain the Gardner Douglas approach and pass the bulb and wiper currents through the switches. However, this would not allow the use of a ‘lane change’ flick to flash the indicators, dictate the use of manual wipers (no rain sensing), remove the ability to use a modern hazard switch, and makes automatic wipers a non-starter. Electronic engineering is the way forward!<br />
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One way the indicator could be connected to a ‘new’ BCM is to apply a voltage to switch pin 3 and add a suitable resistor between pin 2 and ground. The BCM can then read the voltage across the pull-down resistor and determine the switch positions – easy!<br />
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Not quite. The BCM has to, among other things, try to catch quick switching events (e.g. a lane change ‘flick’ of the indicator) so it would have to continuously poll the voltage, and still may miss events due to the time involved in the Analogue to Digital Conversion. In addition, this then doesn’t leave time for other jobs in the BCM such as measuring the other switch positions, managing the bus communications, or working out the required light configuration.<br />
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I needed a new plan.<br />
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A better way to react to asynchronous events is with an interrupt. Some microcontrollers have the ability to interrupt when the voltage at a pin changes level when compared to a reference voltage. Upon a switch event, the change in voltage at the output of the switch would change the output of a comparator, invoking an interrupt. Perfect! Unfortunately, the
number of comparators available on my options of microcontrollers for the BCM brain (Arduino / Teensy / Pyboard) is limited (one or two in some cases), and I would like to apply this across at least five inputs in the BCM, it is not a reasonable route. Oh dear!<br />
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Plan C…<br />
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I can take the principal of the comparator interrupt and build an external circuit to achieve much the same effect. Since a Pin Change Interrupt is available on most digital pins of the micros, I have a way forward. Joy!
Tool Chimphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03370909545388377892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6383896885378961904.post-91424257322080723452017-12-08T13:28:00.000+00:002017-12-20T13:31:03.232+00:00Long time no see!Whilst it has been some time since I have updated this blog, I have still been working on the car. Family commitments, house purchase and subsequent move, and life in general have all got in the way, but I have still made little pieces of progress albeit in a greatly reduced capacity. The loss of a camera with the photos of this progress didn’t help, so I’ll try to fill in the blanks.<br />
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<b>Power assisted steering</b><br />
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Should this car ever actually make it to the road, I would like to make it as ‘everyday driveable’ as possible, which for me, means it needs power assisted steering. There is an ‘unofficial’ hydraulic option where the steering rack from (I believe) an Impreza is substituted in place of the standard part. I am concerned that this will negatively impact the steering geometry including bump steer, so I have shelved that idea. The other possibility (which I have elected to try) is Electric Power Assisted Steering (EPAS)<br />
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After some trawling of the internet, the EPAS from a Vauxhall Corsa C seems to be a good choice. It is column rather than rack mounted, has simple electrical needs (i.e. no CAN bus messages to replicate), and is popular in other car building communities so is readily available. The biggest drawback is that it needs a vehicle speed signal in order to adjust the amount of assistance it provides. This takes the form of a square wave where frequency is proportional to speed. There are a number of ‘little box of electronics’ available on eBay that provide this signal which come with a dial in order to alter the frequency. This is a manual operation and only therefore allows for a fixed level of assistance which more than likely ends up with the steering too heavy at low speed (a little redundant then!), or too light at high speed (more than a little dangerous). The challenge is achieving a speed related assistance so I will need to develop a way of getting the Cobra’s speed signal into the Power Steering controller. Unfortunately, the controller is expecting a speed signal from the Corsa which almost certainly has a different number of pulses per mile than the speed signal from the transmission in my car, so some frequency conversion will be required. Fortunately, this opens up the possibility of an amount of tuning of the assistance vs. speed map.
An awful lot of the groundwork for this has already been carried out here so at the risk of ‘standing on the shoulders of giants’ I need to integrate this information into my own box of tricks. Sounds simple!<br />
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<a href="http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/steering/corsa-epas-power-steering-kit-car/">corsa epas power steering kit car</a><br />
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With the electronic side of things in hand, I need a way of mounting the column into the car. A ‘standard’ Gardner Douglas mk4 uses a Vectra B steering column, but this is wildly different to the Corsa design. Therefore I need to design my own installation, bearing in mind any new brackets will have to absorb the torque reaction from the column. After a flurry of activity with calipers, height gauge, inclinometer and numerous bits of steel, I have been able to re-create the Corsa column as a 3D CAD model. This then allowed me to design a bespoke bracket arrangement that picks up on the windscreen mounting points on the body in a fashion similar to the GD design. At the other end, I am mounting to the corner of the transmission tunnel as this makes for a short cross car tube for maximum stiffness. I ordered a kit of laser cut steel parts from my CAD models and have welded up the assembly. Some adjustment is needed for final alignment, but it sits roughly where it needs to so I’m taking this as a win!
Connecting the column to the rack is the next step on the installation journey. When procuring the Corsa column, I also obtained a lower joint which would normally connect the output spline to the steering rack. This has an extendible portion to aid in assembly as well as provide collapsibility when in a crash. Since the steering rack in the Cobra has a different input spline, the bottom end of this lower shaft was pointless and so was despatched with judicious use of a drill and grinder. I then turned up an adaptor to join the remaining part to the steering shaft extensions in the car.<br />
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<b>Pedal Box</b><br />
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Gardner Douglas supply an adjustable pedal box which, since I have unusually long legs, seems like a good idea to allow others to drive the car (again, predicated by the ‘finished car’ status, whenever that may happen!). Unfortunately, all the messing round I have done with the steering column means a key structural joint intended to support the pedal box is now not feasible. I could have hacked together a bracket to pick up on an alternative hard point, but where would be is the fun in that? I elected to design my own pedal box and take the opportunity to make it electrically adjustable as reaching under the dash and turning a knob manually seems so last century!<br />
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The pedal box is a safety critical item as failure of components would likely be catastrophic, so some care had to be taken. Some digging around indicated that the maximum effort that a strong person may apply to the brake pedal in an emergency (with safety factor) is around 1500N, so this was my target. The confines of the foot well provide some interesting constraints, so I measured and modelled the environment to help with the design. I used a standard Jaguar brake master cylinder (the LHD version was more convenient for hose routing) and an aftermarket clutch cylinder. Ensuring sufficient movement of the clutch slave cylinder whilst achieving the target pedal ratio of 6.5:1 (since these are non-power assisted brakes, this ratio should give a reasonable feel) proved to be a little tricky, but a few iterations to get the concept refined meant I could turn to Finite Element Analysis (FEA). This allowed me to ensure that under the maximum load, no undue deflection or excessive stresses would occur, and normal operation would see no fatigue issues. When I was happy with the design, I sent the flat pieces off to the laser cutter and set about some bar stock with a lathe for the round bits.
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Using a vee block, a hydraulic press and an inclinometer and a little bit of maths (to estimate spring back), I formed the joggles in the pedal arms.<br />
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I machined up a matched die pair from scrap aluminium that I used in a press to curve the pedals as needed.<br />
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I still need to make a small fixture in order to jig the pedal arms to their respective pedals and pivot guide tubes.
Tool Chimphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03370909545388377892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6383896885378961904.post-30604587301808450092014-11-26T09:55:00.000+00:002014-11-26T09:55:06.167+00:00It might be a car one day!Despite the lack of updates since my last milestone, I have been making progress in a number of areas on the car.
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I have started fabrication of the lower radiator pipe (to the water pump) from a collection of stainless bends and straight sections - this is currently tacked up and test fitted to check the clearances and it is ready for fully welding<br />
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Installed the four rivnuts which will hold the fan brackets to the radiator<br />
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Test fitted all of the metalwork for both doors (hinges, hinge brackets, intrusion beam, lock mounting etc.), bonnet (‘hood’ for subscribers across the pond) and boot.<br />
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Most of these were a simple fit, but I had to adjust the boot hinges somewhat. Unfortunately, the only way to tell
exactly what adjustments were needed was to fold my 6’2” frame into the boot, then lift the loose panel into plate (with wedges around the opening to make sure it was centralised). Now inside the boot (along with a torch), I could offer up the hinges to their respective mounting points on the boot and see what needed adjusting. It turned out that I needed to adjust the angle of the mounting plate on the end of the metalwork which involved cutting a slit most of the way through the arm, bending it closed then welding it up. This seemed
to do the trick so I could disassemble everything and send them all off to be powder coated along with the radiator fan brackets.<br />
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Trimmed and filled the remaining seams on the bonnet, boot and door panels. These are substantially complete, but there are a few areas that need more attention.<br />
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Moulded the brackets that will mount the bonnet and boot panel gas struts. These were made by setting up a polypropylene barrier in the four locations (2 on each of the panels) and applying a layer of release tape to the fibreglass skin of the bonnet or boot.<br />
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I could then gel coat and wet-lay the carbon fibre tape against the barrier and release tape to create a perfectly fitting bracket.<br />
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Once cured, I trimmed to shape and bonded in the threaded metal insert that accepts the strut end ball stud. These can then be bonded to their respective panels along with installing the captive nuts in the bodywork to allow the gas struts to be fitted.<br />
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Machined the slots for mounting the windscreen / windshield to the body, along with drilling and tapping the mounting points for the two wing mirrors into the two screen pillars.<br />
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After test fitting the pillars and screen though, I have noticed quite a large gap (~10mm) on one side at the bottom of the pillar which tapers to essentially no gap where the pillar meets the body. I need to address this as the mounting bolts will no doubt clamp it up tight, but this will stress the windscreen which won’t do it any favours. I am not sure I can straighten the pillar enough without cracking the chrome plating, so a tapered ‘wedge’ may be required<br />
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In addition, given the significant lead time, I have now ordered the trim (seats and carpets) – but you will have to wait until the big
reveal to find out what colour(s) I have chosen!Tool Chimphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03370909545388377892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6383896885378961904.post-72152072172928124042014-10-20T10:10:00.002+01:002014-10-20T10:10:29.113+01:00Short post, big milestone!Short update, but big milestone reached this week. With Herculean assistance from my brother (thanks Neil), we were able to turn the body and trestle around to the correct orientation, then use an engine crane to take the rather significant weight of the fibreglass and dismantle the cradle from underneath. The body could then be lowered into position and with a little pushing and levering, get it settled into its final position on the chassis.<br />
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Its starting to look like a car now!
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<br />Tool Chimphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03370909545388377892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6383896885378961904.post-45538700873352189762014-10-06T10:12:00.000+01:002014-10-06T10:12:14.138+01:00Catching Up<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I have been slowly making progress on the replacement bonnet catch. The last update I had made a mould from the region of bonnet inner where the catch would be mounted - I then proceeded to make a part from this mould which would form the basis of the new plug.</div>
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I pressed my CNC machine into service to machine some tooling resin to shape which then had to be ‘let in’ to the fibreglass, the gaps closed off and a good fillet of filler applied to the base to minimise any stress from opening, closing and driving vibration. </div>
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This new plug could then be covered in a plug finishing resin, sanded to a good finish with ever finer grades of wet and dry, before the final step of 6 wax coats as a mould release.<br />
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I was then able to make a new mould from this plug which needed minimal finishing before it received its own 6 coats of wax</div>
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I was finally able to pull the actual part in the same colour as the bonnet itself – quite a lot of effort to get to this stage!</div>
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This replacement piece was then trimmed to size and used to mark up for the far more scary job of trimming my pristine bonnet inner skin to accommodate it. With some careful cutting and sanding I was able to get a reasonable fit between the two parts – almost done!<br />
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Since fibreglass is
not great at accepting the threads for the bonnet catch mounting screws, I had a metal insert machined (thanks Colin) which would be sandwiched between the upper and lower panels. This was bonded onto the upper skin by screwing it to the new piece then mixing resin and micro balloons (tiny glass beads) to make up an adhesive paste which could then be applied to the insert and the whole thing put in place. Once cured, the adhesive held the insert in place well enough to remove the ‘cap’ and reinforce the joint with resin and fibreglass.<br />
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The cap could then be finally installed using more resin and micro balloons paste on the insert and all around the opening in the bonnet skin. Quite hard to describe, but the pictures should explain it! Once this was cured, I ground a small groove along the join line, and applied gel coat to fill it in. This could then be cut back and polished to form an apparently seamless joint.
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With the bonnet modification complete, I was able to hinge it to the body and install and adjust the bracket which mounts the other side of the catch. This will be getting a cosmetic cover in due course and I still need to decide on the most appropriate position for the release handle along with routing of the cable, but having this job done clears the way for finally mating the body to the chassis!<br />
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<br />Tool Chimphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03370909545388377892noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6383896885378961904.post-69203805099392055492014-08-11T14:51:00.001+01:002014-08-11T14:51:49.992+01:00Progress and everything!<div class="MsoNormal">
Despite my lack of updates, I have still been progressing the build on a number of fronts and there is a bumper load of pictures for your perusal!</div>
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Since my last email, I have cast all of the wax cores for the intake runners though things were hampered slightly by the first set of moulds ‘drinking’ a couple of cores worth of wax, which meant I had to order some more wax! In addition, two of the carbon fibre lay ups failed to meet the required standard - I managed to blow a couple of holes in the heatshrink which turned out to be unrecoverable after curing so I also ran out of carbon sleeve.
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Still, I now have 10 runners (8 good ones!) from which to build up the required manifold parts, though there are only 8 shown in the picture! Unfortunately, they will take a little more finishing than originally hoped due to the less than ideal surface finish from the heatshrink. I will have to wet sand them smooth before applying a finish coat of resin, which will get post-cured along with the bulk of the layup when I melt out the wax.
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Onto the body work and probably the most dreaded part for fellow Gardner Douglas builders electing to carry out the finishing work themselves – the engine bay bulkhead. This is where two parts of the moulding meet and the join is usually a gap in the gel coat that needs to be filled.Some people choose to use body filler and paint, but I wanted to use the factory recommended method of using gel coat for a seamless and hard wearing finish.
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Things went a little down hill from the start – the first problem encountered was the join itself was not so much a gap as a step in the moulding. Holding a straight edge against the panel showed around a 4mm gap at the worst point!<br />
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I persevered though and proceeded to key in the surface and mask off the entire panel with three layers of masking tape. The idea is to apply the gel coat and use the masking tape as a depth stop when skimming the surface then peel it off before curing. The top layer of gel does not cure in contact with oxygen (allows for a better bond for subsequent reinforcement when using it in a conventional layup), so this is removed with acetone before rubbing back the cured material to the desired level and finish.<br />
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Given the depth of the mis-match I had to use a number of coats to build up the required thickness, but I got most of the way there. I decided to flat back to a level before applying the finishing layer and this is where I noticed a colour mis-match between the gel I was applying (which matches the body) and the inner engine bay moulding. Apparently they are two similar, but different greys!<br />
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Since I would not be able to apply and feather out the correct grey across the whole bulkhead, and after a short bout of tourettes syndrome, I elected to use the body filler and paint approach.<br />
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This progressed quite quickly thanks to the warm weather and after a good period for properly hardening, I was able to polish it back to a reasonable finish.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgts8f_zW2IlCD7nRRWPSTBgn4KGhGEKbrolN9VxJsVSpB0xKzzRRXVeb-PpYg_l6818i40H48QrUZzyhCY0Dcb5XehHn6HHyoX96ytOlXPA2-AGFu7AVXSBZGf-RzA74J5fKfWbyK2I0s/s1600/2014-07-26_DSC_0145.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgts8f_zW2IlCD7nRRWPSTBgn4KGhGEKbrolN9VxJsVSpB0xKzzRRXVeb-PpYg_l6818i40H48QrUZzyhCY0Dcb5XehHn6HHyoX96ytOlXPA2-AGFu7AVXSBZGf-RzA74J5fKfWbyK2I0s/s1600/2014-07-26_DSC_0145.JPG" height="212" width="320" /></a></div>
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The next job on the list was the footwell extension. This sits on the driver’s side and provides a wider area, particularly for the clutch pedal. This is supplied as a fibreglass moulding which needs to be trimmed and fitted with a peripheral neoprene seal and jack nuts to allow installation. I also elected to paint it body colour, just because I had a can spare from painting the bulkhead!</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">The only other area in which I have been working is the bonnet catch. I wasn’t keen on using the typical quarter turn locks that are used in the two rear corners of the bonnet, so I managed to track down a (slightly) more modern solution in the form of a unit from a mk2 golf. This requires an addition to the bonnet inner skin moulding to allow for mounting and fastener threads, so I need to make a small inlay of the correct form.</span></div>
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To achieve this, I have taken a moulding from the underside of the bonnet in the region of the new catch mounting and from this I will be able to make a copy of the skin. This can be built up the region in question, before using this as a plug for a new mould. It will all make sense shortly… I hope!</div>
Tool Chimphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03370909545388377892noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6383896885378961904.post-42213220498876275092014-05-19T17:10:00.000+01:002014-05-19T17:10:17.699+01:00Big progress!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Quite an eventful time since my last update. I completed the second half of the plaster mould for making the intake manifold runner wax plugs. Unfortunately, of all the words I could use to describe the first trial, ‘successful’ does not even register! From my previous experiment, I learned that the mould needs to be warm otherwise the wax chills too quickly and leaves a very poor surface finish. This time around, I discovered that the plaster was so absorbent that is ‘drank’ virtually all of the liquid wax before it could freeze. As well as failing to make a wax plug, this meant that the mould surface was now waxy and I could not get any sealant to stick to it! I therefore had to rethink the all-plaster method and reverted back to the silicone and plaster ‘mother mould’ technique. This time however, I used a higher hardness silicone that holds its shape much better than the first material I trialled. Building on the first all-plaster mould, I also revised the closing box shape to lose a lot of the unnecessary volume. This made for a lighter part to ease handling, as well as minimising the face area of the tool, thereby reducing the chances of debris getting caught between the two halves and distorting the cavity alignment.</div>
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I started the mould by creating a wall around the plug into which I poured the silicone. This takes 24 hours to cure, then I added the registration markers (the black 'dots') and assembled the wooden case for pouring the plaster.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuPwVUA2wf03LypO6SNnkXFSCZ9QJLwKa89ylznwA94Vaj1g3DIg9XdPAPmU3vm588mr-m3ambDPgwTqiPw1v2YeYpBWG4Y9ksJ2W1QaZZIO1k9OW6IVdMq_tQYWO3JrjY_FqyM8CgNMY/s1600/2014-04-23_DSC_0125.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuPwVUA2wf03LypO6SNnkXFSCZ9QJLwKa89ylznwA94Vaj1g3DIg9XdPAPmU3vm588mr-m3ambDPgwTqiPw1v2YeYpBWG4Y9ksJ2W1QaZZIO1k9OW6IVdMq_tQYWO3JrjY_FqyM8CgNMY/s1600/2014-04-23_DSC_0125.JPG" height="212" width="320" /></a></div>
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With this part cured, I could de-mould it, turn it over then apply Vaseline as a release agent to the first silicone half. I then built a a further plasticine wall before pouring the second half of the silicone<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2KW9TL8oWhq7iNRHkNd6ZdwahmQO3kAgfM7v5wkVMMuCu2CQSusjE_1HRGvfV4KNchyphenhyphenNkvjnTVLNA0zd6fxWrp1LOoT7OKnUmNF0cWEusUGRvonsMG1LzGeSjgTKYrqE5T6k3o2_Wiio/s1600/2014-04-25_DSC_0126.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2KW9TL8oWhq7iNRHkNd6ZdwahmQO3kAgfM7v5wkVMMuCu2CQSusjE_1HRGvfV4KNchyphenhyphenNkvjnTVLNA0zd6fxWrp1LOoT7OKnUmNF0cWEusUGRvonsMG1LzGeSjgTKYrqE5T6k3o2_Wiio/s1600/2014-04-25_DSC_0126.JPG" height="212" width="320" /></a></div>
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After 3 coats of mould release 'soap' to act as a barrier, this could then be boxed up to pour the second half of the plaster.<br />
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Finally, the mark 2 version of the mould is ready. I left it a week (with the two mould halves bound together to minimise distortion) allowing the majority of the moisture in the plaster to evaporate.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5sKM4SfdL52iX__yxzidN1rr0gEEioe2NMD9_RuCXjEq1UBXBfZNnXTmmg2wK8rdK_vd84h0gO_PRxQIjKanlngKgueaZuERgRwDGcZb4Fq0OB8Oz0UC0s-pZQVM6-JXvfVTtGBBP3t0/s1600/2014-04-25_DSC_0129.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5sKM4SfdL52iX__yxzidN1rr0gEEioe2NMD9_RuCXjEq1UBXBfZNnXTmmg2wK8rdK_vd84h0gO_PRxQIjKanlngKgueaZuERgRwDGcZb4Fq0OB8Oz0UC0s-pZQVM6-JXvfVTtGBBP3t0/s1600/2014-04-25_DSC_0129.JPG" height="212" width="320" /></a></div>
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Nothing left now but to pour in the wax and hold a piece of dowel in place to act as a handle<br />
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The first part out of the mould did not have a great surface finish, mainly due to the moisture still present in the plaster part of the mould condensing inside the cavity (despite the week I gave it to dry out). Further wax parts have greatly improved upon this as the plaster has dried out even more<br />
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With a usable wax master, I have been able to lay up a trial carbon fibre runner with a schedule of 2 layers of gel coat followed by 4 layers of carbon sleeve covered in a coated heat shrink tube for consolidation, all cured at room temperature. The post cure cycle (vital for parts exposed to elevated temperatures) even allowed the wax core to melt out as planned. There were a few cosmetic issues with this first part – a couple of runs in the gel coat and learning the best way to apply the sleeve layers – meant a less than ideal weave pattern on the outside. In addition, the heat shrink is very thin and therefore was a little tricky to work with (i.e. I burned a couple of holes in it before I turned down the wick on the heat gun!). This, along with the less than ideal internal surface finish from the first off wax, meant this was a sacrificial part only suitable for cutting up to see how well the composite had been laminated. I am pleased to report only a few small inclusions in the thickness of the wall and a couple of bubbles under the gel coat which should be avoidable with better consolidation between applying layers of sleeve. I have enough materials for a second trial (along with the 8 ‘good’ parts needed for the job), but hopefully I won’t need to cut up another one! Eight more to go then.<br />
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Other big news is that the body shell is finally complete and last week I travelled up to Newark to collect. I am very pleased with the colour combination and the photos don’t do it justice – bear in mind it is straight out of the mould with no polishing. Unfortunately, in all the excitement of getting it off the back of the Luton van (thanks for the additional muscle power, Neil!) I neglected to get a proper picture of it. The body will remain on its stand whilst I work inside the engine bay, then It can be mated with the chassis before carrying on assembly. I should then be able to get a good photo or two when it rolls out into the sun light as a (sort of) complete car!</div>
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First job is to apply stone chip to the inside of the wheel arches. Not the most glamorous of jobs, getting spattered in liquid rubber and cross eyed from the fumes, but 2 coats later, it is complete.<br />
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Next up is the fitting of the various panels - 2 in the wheel arches, bonnet and boot. This should keep me entertained for a little while!</div>
Tool Chimphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03370909545388377892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6383896885378961904.post-24977487993437999792014-04-01T09:57:00.000+01:002014-04-01T09:59:09.881+01:00Plug Progress!<div class="MsoNormal">
A bumper update of photos this week! Recent progress has been centred around starting the composite work for the intake manifold. To this end, I have finally plucked up the courage to run my milling machine in anger. I have started by cutting the plug for the intake runner (1 per engine
cylinder) from polyurethane tooling board which is quite a nice material that machines like a block of car body filler (Bondo to subscribers across the pond). A rough and finish path on either side of the block then it is a simple matter of cutting the supports away and cleaning up the stub left over.</div>
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This is a 2-sided part so alignment of the block to the machine is critical. This ensures that both tool paths line up when the part is broken out of the block. To this end, I used a finger clock to align the long axis of the part with the x-axis of the machine. Not an easy task given the less than ideal surface along this face!</div>
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I could then use an edge finder to zero the machine on the appropriate corner of the block<br />
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A rough pass saw the part taking shape<br />
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Finishing the first side, then roughing and finishing the second side (after repeating the alignment procedure) yielded a part ready to break out of the block. The more astute amongst you will notice the patches of lighter coloured material. During machining, the Z-axis (spindle up and down) come loose on me due to poor pulley alignment, causing the z-axis to loose its location. Fortunately, a bit of car body filler and locally running the finishing path allowed me to recover the part.<br />
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There is a 'pencil cleanup' option in the tool path generation software that supposedly would allow the machine to cut the part away from its supports, but I chose to do this manually on this occasion until I have a bit more confidence on using this option. I didn't want to write off a few hours of work at this point! I used a burr bit in a dremel to remove the supports and a quick clean up with 120 grit paper and I had the makings of my runner plug<br />
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Once machined, I had to apply the top coat to the plug in order to arrive a finish that could take a polish. This is not strictly necessary on this part since the down stream processes are unlikely to reproduce the finish exactly, but I felt it would be good practice in using the materials and techniques.</div>
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The finish comprises a couple of coats of tooling resin which is a 2-part coating that cures to a hard finish suitable for polishing. It is applied by brush (or spray if available), then cut back with progressively finer grades of wet and dry paper, ending in 1500 grit. I used black guide coat to ensure I had passed over the entire surface with each grade. The screws in the ends simply allow me to hang the part when the various layers a drying.</div>
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Then a switch to poilishing compound and a few coats of mould release wax for good measure.<br />
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With all of the master pattern finishing complete, I could turn my attention to the plaster mould. The split line on the part is particularly challenging as it is curved in two directions and since I was using a semi-hard tool, I would need to replicate it quite accurately, otherwise I would lock the part in one half of the tool. I finally figured out I could create a 3D CAD model of the required split line, then flatten it to provide a pattern which I could use to cut out pieces of thin styrene sheet.<br />
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This was flexible enough to form along either side of the plug, which would then guide the application of plasticine to form the sacrificial tool face. The remaining plasticine structure was formed and a number of domes were located to provide tool half to tool half alignment<br />
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. I could then form the shuttering around the part and pour the plaster.</div>
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Once cured, The shuttering and plasticine was removed, then the plaster trimmed back and cleaned up. Half way there!<br />
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From here, I will need to apply a release agent to prevent the other half from attaching itself during curing, rebuild the shuttering, then pour the second half of the tool. This will take a week or so to dry fully before I can use it in anger to make my wax plugs.</div>
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In the mean time, I have completed a couple of small jobs for the car itself – I have finally terminated the fuel lines with appropriate
fittings. This involves a compression fitting on the pipe itself, which presents an ‘AN dash 6’ female thread, which in turn is converted to a typical push fit fuel line connector (with the red caps / masking tape plugs in the pictures). From here, I will need to make up the flexible lines, but they will have to wait until the body is installed.</div>
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I am still wanting for a confirmed collection date on the bodywork, but it should be ready soon. I still have plenty to keep me occupied in the mean time!Tool Chimphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03370909545388377892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6383896885378961904.post-47931689794156236712014-03-10T14:59:00.000+00:002014-03-10T15:01:14.123+00:00Still chipping away!<div class="MsoNormal">
Despite the distinct lack of updates, I have been making some progress on the build. Since my last missive, I have test run the CNC milling machine and for the most part was pleased with the result. I was able to successfully use the <a href="http://www.grzsoftware.com/">MeshCAM</a> software to convert the 3D CAD model to G-Code (the language that the milling machine uses), run the spindle off the power supply that was recued out of a skip and the motion control (from PC signal to stepper motor drive) worked faultlessly. Unfortunately, there was an issue with the overall stiffness of the machine that meant the surfaces finish left a lot to be desired when cutting aluminium. I identified two major routes to improve the situation – one was to increase the torsional stiffness of the gantry, the other was the lateral stiffness of the bed. In addition, I have replaced the spindle motor with one which includes an integral cooling fan which will allow better continuous operation. These modifications have now all been completed and the second commissioning run is anticipated this week.</div>
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Other progress has been centred around the manufacturing method of the intake manifold. The manifold runners are essentially tubes of tapering cross sectional area, morphing from a rectangular to a circular cross section and sweeping around a path with a number of bends. Using conventional lamination methods would require two halves of the runner to be moulded, then joined (typically by a reinforced glue joint). I felt this was a risky strategy because the vibration, pressure pulsations and temperature loads may well lead to failure of this joint. I therefore needed a method of laying up a complete tube in one go. Despite my best google efforts, I have been unable to find someone who has published something similar so I have had to invent a method for making these parts. This involves a ‘lost wax’ lamination method where a sacrificial plug of wax is moulded then the continuously woven carbon fibre sleeve can then be laid up over it and consolidated with heatshrink tube. Once cured, the wax can be melted out of the part during the post-cure process
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The first job for the improved milling machine will therefore be to cut the plug that will be used in the carbon fibre runners in the intake manifold, but before I can do that, I needed to establish some shrinkage values. The wax I intend to use is typical paraffin wax used in candles which can have anything up to 3% shrinkage during cooling, this combined with the 0.5% shrinkage of the resin lay up and whatever method was used to cast the wax in the first place would have a noticeable effect on the finished part dimensions. I therefore decided to build a sample mould to measure the actual shrinkage, to be able to compensate in the plug dimensions. My chosen method for this was a ‘mother’ mould involving a silicone tooling layer, combined with a plaster outer shell for rigidity. I marked a piece of plastic rod with two grooves a know distance apart and created the mould. I could then pour molten wax into this mould and once cooled, measure the
corresponding ridges in the silicone and grooves in the wax part. </div>
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With the end grooves aligned, the shrinkage of the wax (on the right) can be seen against the original nylon (left).<br />
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The end result of all this was 0.5% shrinkage of the silicone, and 1.6% shrinkage of the wax. I also learned a couple of valuable lessons this moulding technique in that my original mould had insufficient keying between the two halves leading to a mis-match in the wax (I suspect a higher Shore hardness silicone would improve the situation), along with the need to pre-heat the mould before pouring the wax otherwise a poor surface finish results. Given the relative simplicity of the shape required, I have therefore decided to make the ‘production’ mould from a grade of casting plaster which will pre-heat well and the two halves can be made to lock together more effectively than the silicone. With the shrinkage values established, I should be machining the plug shortly, thought the finishing will take a little while longer as this will be inner surface of the runner and a good polished surface will help with overall performance.</div>
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As for the car itself, I have been wrapping up the last few jobs on the chassis assembly. On the rear axle, I have installed the springs and dampers, though these required a series of spacers to be machined due to clearances in the chassis bracket around the upper fixing.</div>
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The front springs and dampers are a simple case of bolting up to the waiting wishbones</div>
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Having the springs and damper allowed me to carry out the bump steer measurement and correction. A picture paints a thousand words, so a video must do that exponentially. I used method 3 (Rowly Method) as per the Pilgrim Sumo Wiki: <a href="http://how-to-build-a-pilgrim-sumo.wikidot.com/measuring-bump-steer">measuring-bump-steer</a><br />
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I have cleaned and re-built the handbrake and attached the hand brake cable to the appropriate levers on the callipers.<br />
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In addition, I have procured the radiator cooling fan (a 16” unit from Kenlowe to be mounted behind the radiator) and fabricated the mounting brackets. These were simple pieces of sheet metal (laser cut for simplicity), folded, then 6mm bolts welded in (with their heads ground down to a minimum thickness). I have carried out a test fit, and will paint or powder coat them in due course.</div>
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Other chassis progress has been the procurement and fitting of the steering shafts and universal joints. The upper steering shaft needed the paint removing before the rose joint could be slid on and I need to wait until the complete column is fitted before establishing the final position of the support on the shaft. I will then be able to fix the rose joint and paint the remaining exposed steel.</div>
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The other big news is after much deliberation, sample trials and general indecisiveness, I have finally arrived at a specification for my body shell! I will be having the body in gel coat, partly for cost reasons, but mostly because the gel will be much thicker than any paint and therefore will be much more resistant to stone chips and easier to repair. I was not comfortable making a colour decision based on a small sample swatch, so ended up laying up a 12” square of each of the short list colours before the final decision. Unfortunately, you will all have to wait until the body is collected before you get to see the grand unveiling, but I should be in possession of the complete body within a few weeks. Can’t wait!</div>
<br />Tool Chimphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03370909545388377892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6383896885378961904.post-2882453462163570842013-09-23T09:08:00.000+01:002013-09-23T09:08:10.759+01:00Just like buses......nothing for ages, then two updates together!<br />
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Some of the smaller jobs ticked off the list most recently include finally finding a solution to the thermostat housing problem. Having bought two aftermarket versions (which although nice and shiny, did not fit), I thought I would throw caution to the wind an source a genuine Ford part. Low and behold it dropped straight in with no issues! The only modification I needed was to drill and tap the optional fitting in the top so I could fit a secondary temperature sensor. This will be the sensor to drive the temperature gauge whereas the sensor in the normal position in the manifold will be reserved for the Engine Control Module. It is possible I could have used a single sensor for both, but there were potential buffering and ground loop issues having two processors reading the same sensor so I thought in the interest of fault diagnosis, two was better than one.<br />
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Carrying on the sensor theme, I have sourced an oil pressure sensor that GM use on their LS series of engines, and machined up an adaptor to allow connector to the normal ‘idiot light’ switch position on the engine block. As usual, nothing is ever that simple, and clearance to the block meant that the sensor would not simply screw into the same position, so the adaptor also had to relocate the sensor to a remote location. Fortunately, Ford have provided a suitable threaded boss in the water pump for just such an occasion. A short braided hose was also required to connect the two together, so another skill of hose assembly was learned.</div>
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The other sensor fitted recently was to read oil temperature. Once again, Ford have been kind enough to provide an easy route in the form of a secondary drain plug in the sump. This is used to get all of the oil out that would otherwise be trapped by the ‘hump’ of the oil pan that clears the sub frame normally running under the engine. I was able to reverse engineer the thread used on this fitting and machine up an adaptor for the sensor. It is not at the lowest point on the chassis but it is still a little vulnerable, so this will get some kind of skid pan to protect the connector and wiring.<br />
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Since the sensors will be read by a microprocessor, I have not been able to use the more typical 1-wire senders as the earth path through the block typically affects the measurements. I have therefore had to use 2-wire sensors which are more difficult to come by, and even harder to find suitable data sheets. Fortunately, the GM LS engines are used quite a lot in aftermarket installations (they will sell a whole crate engine if you want), and more data is available on the spares. I therefore have a Ford engine, but controlled and monitored using GM sensors – fingers crossed they will work together without getting into a fight!<br />
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Other progress has been the fitting of the clutch slave cylinder and making up the braided hose for the hydraulic line and I have now collected the rear part of the exhaust from Gardner Douglas. This connecting pipes will need modifying (or replacing) to meet up with my own design headers, but it gives me a head start in terms of known good routing under the chassis and bodywork.<br />
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As for the milling machine, I have now connected the motors to the various slides and successfully run through a sample program. There are a couple of parts to finish on the spindle drive and I will then be in good shape to start test cutting.<br />
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Tool Chimphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03370909545388377892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6383896885378961904.post-81592164014679674282013-09-17T09:32:00.002+01:002013-09-17T09:32:59.243+01:00I'm still here and chipping away at it!Updates have been conspicuous by their absence for most of
this year, mainly because of the lack of progress on the car. Work and other
commitments have meant I have not been able to devote much time to the build,
but I have not been totally idle on the Cobra front.<br />
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A big part of the build is the intake system I have been
designing and in order to manufacture it, I will need a number of custom
aluminium parts along with plugs and moulds for the carbon fibre work. I took a
long look at the economics of this and decided the most cost effective way
forward was to develop the capability of machining these parts myself. To this
end, I have spent most of the intervening months (and budget) designing and
building a bench-top 3 axis computer controlled milling machine. This doesn’t
have the precision or power of commercially available machines, but my aim is
for it to match or beat the tolerances of sand cast parts when machining aluminium
and produce the highly contoured plugs for the composite work with far more
precision than I would otherwise be able to achieve.<br />
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The machine is substantially built and I am currently in the
process of commissioning it. I have had all three axis motors spinning under
the control of the computer and the next stage is to connect them up to the
slides on the machine and get the various parts moving. There are a couple more
components to manufacture in order to complete the spindle, and then it should
be ready for the first test cuts.<br />
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I have had to refresh myself in the
programming language used by these machines (G-codes) as I have not used it
since University and I am getting up to speed on the software used to convert a
3D CAD model into a tool path. The initial parts will therefore be less than
startling, but hopefully I will get the hang of it quickly and the important
(i.e. more noticeable) parts will be fully ‘Cobra Spec’!
Tool Chimphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03370909545388377892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6383896885378961904.post-999909082092431022013-02-04T13:29:00.000+00:002013-02-04T13:29:45.874+00:00New Year, New Progress<br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">First update
of 2013 so happy new year to everyone!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Progress on the build has been sporadic at best but on the odd occasion where the planets aligned, I have managed to complete some aspects of the build. Chiefly among these is the suspension alignment. Jaguar in their infinite wisdom elected to provide for rear wheel alignment by the use of shims at the wishbone and drive shaft mounting points. This is fine in principal until you get to the part that requires half of the suspension to be disassembled to allow a shim to be added or removed. Inevitably during the reassembly the parts do not go back together exactly as previously and the expected change in alignment has not occurred.Still, I got into the swing of measurement, disassembly, adjustment,re-assembly (including lock wiring) and re-measurement to the point where two days work later, I have the rear wheels pointing in the correct direction! Front wheel alignment was considerably easier with the more convention threaded track rod ends requiring a couple of turns to bring everything into
specification. Cue gratuitous shot of chassis with build wheels</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Elsewhere on the car, I was not keen on the provided metal straps to fix the steering rack in place so I elected to machine replacements from billet aluminium. These have been fitted although I still have to measure bump steer which will likely require some adjustment of steering rack position.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG9lPTERxFQU_lHvQO0wJhXynxu0J3GpL3vuKDeBbK3530cUnJK3JLcRJrY7-e7GDnfeMMWC0B6xywgoL7BodjmeqGQy3m4SW8Y6YsvDIvBzC9HUmOBJnWkDNVF7wiF0dDfbgvTy31JnM/s1600/121208_DSC_0033.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG9lPTERxFQU_lHvQO0wJhXynxu0J3GpL3vuKDeBbK3530cUnJK3JLcRJrY7-e7GDnfeMMWC0B6xywgoL7BodjmeqGQy3m4SW8Y6YsvDIvBzC9HUmOBJnWkDNVF7wiF0dDfbgvTy31JnM/s320/121208_DSC_0033.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I designed a bracket for the clutch slave cylinder including carrying out some analysis to ensure it would not fail form fatigue. Once the design and analysis was complete I could
procure the required parts to make it. These (along with a plate for securing the gearbox tail housing) were laser cut from sheet steel and the tack welded into shape for a trial fit. Everything seemed to align as required so this can now be fully welded before painting.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNsHABI32jpR-WjdVAIBtpRWTCQ_F-jLaW3IYuiQHY2pQbVkgl4RtEsZl68c_lsZHPiUmrYgsCz1jUWpycAIOtamORZA4umJo_aNE6ru4KdIArqLtLaeMSD2ZyXCNLgjonacHn4IBTQ2g/s1600/130203_DSC_0049.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNsHABI32jpR-WjdVAIBtpRWTCQ_F-jLaW3IYuiQHY2pQbVkgl4RtEsZl68c_lsZHPiUmrYgsCz1jUWpycAIOtamORZA4umJo_aNE6ru4KdIArqLtLaeMSD2ZyXCNLgjonacHn4IBTQ2g/s320/130203_DSC_0049.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Other progress includes forming the remaining brake hard lines both for the two front uprights and at the rear of the chassis for the rear brake callipers. This also required me to machine a spacer for the junction block so as to avoid the fuel hard lines vying for space in the same part of the car.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXVp0pE4rfv6rFaKRVZXRLTVWA1_bVnR8MTk9M9riSkpa9MavB3BMwWsIndoN7uX-Ppv1nCtRemuJqxisLBAGUD3nGyhEutdI8lx56nTyaBdCezHaw01HaX2xc6Fw0sgJPdq6A6rqot2k/s1600/121208_DSC_0034.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXVp0pE4rfv6rFaKRVZXRLTVWA1_bVnR8MTk9M9riSkpa9MavB3BMwWsIndoN7uX-Ppv1nCtRemuJqxisLBAGUD3nGyhEutdI8lx56nTyaBdCezHaw01HaX2xc6Fw0sgJPdq6A6rqot2k/s320/121208_DSC_0034.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">Lastly, I have trial fitted the radiator, partly start looking at cooling hose routing, but mostly getting it out of the way so I don’t accidentally kick a hole in it!</span>
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Tool Chimphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03370909545388377892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6383896885378961904.post-25508930472293485192012-11-19T09:13:00.001+00:002012-11-19T13:40:29.544+00:00Slowly but surely<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Holiday,
other commitments and a short spell off due to injury means it been a while
since there was any reportable progress on the Cobra, but I have still managed
to keep some things ticking along.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I have
progressed the intake manifold design where the major elements are at least in
place in the CAD model. There is still some detailing to be done, but I believe
there is enough in the scheme to suggest that the basic layout will work. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh4nrQK7KyWb62WdWsFBIUFN08FtAN8AjQ16RflTYKGRgRuKEIvvQTeC_jvZvy6t_nlW4KHbUD1j-7Zc8BCIC332IVWSS6ZYj4O72mM8oDY5tlJ6f3Suz6nLfM0ZVMhGciRyp9w_2wxxc/s1600/Engine_Bay_121119.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh4nrQK7KyWb62WdWsFBIUFN08FtAN8AjQ16RflTYKGRgRuKEIvvQTeC_jvZvy6t_nlW4KHbUD1j-7Zc8BCIC332IVWSS6ZYj4O72mM8oDY5tlJ6f3Suz6nLfM0ZVMhGciRyp9w_2wxxc/s320/Engine_Bay_121119.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">One area of concern I identified was around the thermostat housing neck as on the model, it looked a little too close to the alternator tensioner. Since it would be a while before the lower intake manifold (to which the water neck is bolted) is manufactured and to gain some confidence in that the elements of the CAD model bore some semblance to reality, I decided to manufacture a mock-up plate. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5Qi5YUS26YOiWRwECi3F3_c7Qt_85CyG4EYU1t7PmKkcM6MdbcTwqoJ1IJdVQx_GBwthA_O03LmZ9AqFBvotYOSqaqy6_JjJ7EENrQOnRlU86JqaFuVGVizFzH1dwDE698IYQ-MD1uRM/s1600/120916_DSC_0025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5Qi5YUS26YOiWRwECi3F3_c7Qt_85CyG4EYU1t7PmKkcM6MdbcTwqoJ1IJdVQx_GBwthA_O03LmZ9AqFBvotYOSqaqy6_JjJ7EENrQOnRlU86JqaFuVGVizFzH1dwDE698IYQ-MD1uRM/s320/120916_DSC_0025.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg78DfTWq28pb0g0jHY7KfTEuNEgY_6_Mz-b10pA2vbgDUNOAASwlEZrrKTVXINyzYcN1coawtGuzWZcLWPEDfZ2e_rSg9KrDB6hugTK-iJMqUrTANWvhyphenhyphenDVQUeuef5kJTpS7JpSWDbIuk/s1600/120916_DSC_0026.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg78DfTWq28pb0g0jHY7KfTEuNEgY_6_Mz-b10pA2vbgDUNOAASwlEZrrKTVXINyzYcN1coawtGuzWZcLWPEDfZ2e_rSg9KrDB6hugTK-iJMqUrTANWvhyphenhyphenDVQUeuef5kJTpS7JpSWDbIuk/s320/120916_DSC_0026.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is bolted to the cylinder head but provides the opening that the manifold would, including the fixing positions and sure enough, there was a clash. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkQNGNGMaR_cEMfmHy3GulqPBNm6BHvos1a9iS1EIGqDYvm3pJ5E1a1cBukw3VOFa8IwoTYtRvGDNXZWa2ufJDFUb4HbTuJqXafg61jhT2x0Zzz-SXmYlY60F2GdEA6tdYDvjpPlg08t0/s1600/120916_DSC_0027.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkQNGNGMaR_cEMfmHy3GulqPBNm6BHvos1a9iS1EIGqDYvm3pJ5E1a1cBukw3VOFa8IwoTYtRvGDNXZWa2ufJDFUb4HbTuJqXafg61jhT2x0Zzz-SXmYlY60F2GdEA6tdYDvjpPlg08t0/s320/120916_DSC_0027.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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At least I know this bit of the CAD model is reasonable! I have since found an alternative water neck and all seems well now.</div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Other, more tangible progress has involved the assembly of the rear axle. I completed the hub assembly by fitting the drive shafts and these are a simple matter of bolting up the to the inboard brake discs. With these in place, I can start to look at rear wheel geometry (camber and toe). An initial assessment indicates that I will have to modify the shim arrangement already in place, but from other blogs, there is a knack it does not seem to be too onerous a task.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhYZVhCWILNFBNHkpBPywWu3s7EW6GOaK17lZdk8F1rmqDxUBgy1_ZV_qjpR4JqnhponAbXDKBGzsopR4vN7_8KCICJ6uQfS2JliIBsYZ3zoCHMKZB5Wmi9vOCLpp-LAuyFm36P9Msplg/s1600/121118_DSC_0028.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhYZVhCWILNFBNHkpBPywWu3s7EW6GOaK17lZdk8F1rmqDxUBgy1_ZV_qjpR4JqnhponAbXDKBGzsopR4vN7_8KCICJ6uQfS2JliIBsYZ3zoCHMKZB5Wmi9vOCLpp-LAuyFm36P9Msplg/s320/121118_DSC_0028.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"> I also collected the steering rack and mounts from the kit manufacturer and mocked these up at the front of the chassis. The arms on the rack are too long so will have to be ‘adjusted’ (read set about with a hack saw) to allow the proper toe adjustment. I am also not too keen on the provided mounting straps so I will probably end up making replacement billet versions. I also collected the radiator (bespoke for this car) in the same trip to allow me to add the proper inlet and outlet positions to the CAD model for routing the cooling pipes as well as consider methods for mounting the fan.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Once the steering rack has been modified, I can look to carry out the initial wheel alignment - camber, castor and toe at the front along with camber and toe at the rear. I say initial as the full weight of the car on the wheels will tweak the settings, but it should get me quite close.</div>
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Tool Chimphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03370909545388377892noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6383896885378961904.post-54230238719475694972012-08-28T15:41:00.000+01:002012-08-28T15:41:50.862+01:00Let the games begin<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">A bumper
update this week thanks to the long weekend. Since receiving the chassis and
borrowing a spare bonnet from the kit manufacturer, I have been working away at
creating a CAD model. This was finished up to the necessary level ahead of the
weekend so I could break out the tools and start building!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_TLeoaSAR5KVJSh94ekExMKhTYrdzfW3U8VcKnqHTFMu74WJupQFSSM9gYk1M62FtVLt1TP-f3NElzj2E-XT2wLOkJdUSaEsKd48C145icGzqzXidWqp9s9oSR-9KM2D5FnfwGGKj_AU/s1600/chassis_n_engine_01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_TLeoaSAR5KVJSh94ekExMKhTYrdzfW3U8VcKnqHTFMu74WJupQFSSM9gYk1M62FtVLt1TP-f3NElzj2E-XT2wLOkJdUSaEsKd48C145icGzqzXidWqp9s9oSR-9KM2D5FnfwGGKj_AU/s320/chassis_n_engine_01.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihoRhSCnvOlfMg-jzldSAxphAilF6KTtekG-2o6eTlFPY4d5XKIinPz_cDouAAV6nwSHl8qYAcQgG3TmQTWSdJlxwlmbJsghAW4bdCsdhBiY1BSe8g_c-ZpPLszqhOObUqeiakiVeNo9w/s1600/chassis_n_engine_02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihoRhSCnvOlfMg-jzldSAxphAilF6KTtekG-2o6eTlFPY4d5XKIinPz_cDouAAV6nwSHl8qYAcQgG3TmQTWSdJlxwlmbJsghAW4bdCsdhBiY1BSe8g_c-ZpPLszqhOObUqeiakiVeNo9w/s320/chassis_n_engine_02.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">The build
manual recommends assembling the rear axle off the chassis, then lowering the
framework around it. This seemed like a sensible approach, so I made it the
first task as manoeuvring a bare chassis sounded easier than moving a partially
assembled one. The rear axle is straight out of the donor Jaguar with the lower
wishbones pivoted off the differential. This means that the pivot mounting
brackets determine the toe and thrust of the rear wheels and have to be
carefully aligned with shims. The brackets that hold the assembly into the
chassis are drilled to provide the correct alignment (in theory), so I set
about mocking up the pivots to determine the correct shims. I will still have
to measure the alignment when the axle is complete to finally check the toe and
thrust measurements, but this should give me a good start. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq_rN93-qMqdE3mdSuttzq1vzROOY62DnBaR-44THwy02PGkisfWpGMwW3kHA-lAx7Fc7yOIBppu98cTk-wlVC3g4H6wvbf99yLPIc-mHDce8wprKm5MZsEA4MIOyuFlCUqHZEtrEQO5M/s1600/120825DSC_0001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq_rN93-qMqdE3mdSuttzq1vzROOY62DnBaR-44THwy02PGkisfWpGMwW3kHA-lAx7Fc7yOIBppu98cTk-wlVC3g4H6wvbf99yLPIc-mHDce8wprKm5MZsEA4MIOyuFlCUqHZEtrEQO5M/s320/120825DSC_0001.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">With the shims established, I could fix the lower pivot brackets and make my first attempt at lockwiring the bolt heads, which proved easier than anticipated (when you wrap the wire the correct way around the bolt head!).
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh20-YODE8F09UmpWHUWusGCcO_eP28T8sOcAsCq240dh1bM41yqR0kWSLtQXMte343dpJry-dS-93Lg3bS7ESqGSMOWCMRQptFmEuyNQXu7eofyfE006cDPqKRx5R1P6foBJFziRSGegM/s1600/120825DSC_0002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh20-YODE8F09UmpWHUWusGCcO_eP28T8sOcAsCq240dh1bM41yqR0kWSLtQXMte343dpJry-dS-93Lg3bS7ESqGSMOWCMRQptFmEuyNQXu7eofyfE006cDPqKRx5R1P6foBJFziRSGegM/s320/120825DSC_0002.JPG" width="212" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: left;"> The rest of the rear axle assembly continued as per the Haynes (Chilton) manual including shimming of the rear brake discs (rotors) to centralise them in the callipers and assembly of the rear brake callipers. The assembly of the inner pivot tubes proved to be fun thanks to the multitude of spacers, thrust washers and seal retainers, but the liberal application of grease held everything together long enough to assemble the pivot shaft without a pile of bits on the floor!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">At this stage, the driveshafts and rear uprights would be fitted, but as I am still waiting on parts to complete their assembly, I moved on to fitting what I had to the chassis. This was simply a case of lowering the rear of the frame over the assembly and fitting 8 bolts.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyF9_jhq8cLISPbWxfkXI8ecWSIpmWixC9s3jhAGk8iKoqNKg3wc5taspA8gKRH0KGhDXQBNnmrwJSjmfgvYotPWsfLQUdM-TJDkRuVjOiRN0O5CA33h8E2SSnxGtGWn6WWUTFrvA6UaM/s1600/120825DSC_0005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyF9_jhq8cLISPbWxfkXI8ecWSIpmWixC9s3jhAGk8iKoqNKg3wc5taspA8gKRH0KGhDXQBNnmrwJSjmfgvYotPWsfLQUdM-TJDkRuVjOiRN0O5CA33h8E2SSnxGtGWn6WWUTFrvA6UaM/s320/120825DSC_0005.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">With the rear assembly as complete as I could make it, I moved onto preparation for engine installation. This involved fitting the two fuel lines (feed and return for the injection system) along with the brake pipes. The fuel lines were installed using brackets I designed and a work colleague machined for me (thanks Colin), held in with rivnuts. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">The brake lines use a series of push-in clips and these (along with the fuel line clamps) have to be spaced to provide sufficient support as this is inspected at the Individual Vehicle Approval (IVA) test. Most of the fitting was relatively straightforward, however the front brake pipe proved more challenging due to the tortuous route under the engine mounting bracket. Two sore thumbs later and I was ready to fit the engine and gearbox assembly.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">The chassis design allows for excellent access for this job and the only hindrance was a lack of manoeuvring space for the engine crane. It turned out to be easier to lift the engine up and slide the chassis under it before rolling the crane (and engine) into place. The engine mounts were bolted into place and the powertrain was in its new home. The gearbox tail housing is currently sat on a piece of wood until I can fabricate the rear mounting bracket.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh43blfwex3_gnIP6gvVEgPkVxAH-mp3VTDy5JZtRHXZ0PIOatreWpBcXYyrRKSBDJKRzbToHVwLV7GowecB4jMU7BZgJ-1PxjUGqiEdvMmrmeQyFGlO6_eusFwpv-JbFtSE9ythCsWNu0/s1600/120825DSC_0011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh43blfwex3_gnIP6gvVEgPkVxAH-mp3VTDy5JZtRHXZ0PIOatreWpBcXYyrRKSBDJKRzbToHVwLV7GowecB4jMU7BZgJ-1PxjUGqiEdvMmrmeQyFGlO6_eusFwpv-JbFtSE9ythCsWNu0/s320/120825DSC_0011.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">With the engine installed, I was able to turn my attention to the front suspension. As per the rear axle, this is lifted straight from the Jaguar donor and bolts up to the chassis in the same way. The only real deviation is the bespoke steering arm to suit the new rack as well at the omission of the various shields. This concluded my weekend of construction – not bad for a few days work!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7QYRe6fKz7Fapb47X6sYHQdrWZN_yngtftFNeGF6n0iE9ae5y6VSz4wQk2GDcF9-1AdWfDaC7xRLpL43uH9ob2AzxFtGtdMz7ru7o7HrkkXJPRF3cZ5zo1Zek8VCWnYK0o6_OjYvG2ME/s1600/120825DSC_0013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7QYRe6fKz7Fapb47X6sYHQdrWZN_yngtftFNeGF6n0iE9ae5y6VSz4wQk2GDcF9-1AdWfDaC7xRLpL43uH9ob2AzxFtGtdMz7ru7o7HrkkXJPRF3cZ5zo1Zek8VCWnYK0o6_OjYvG2ME/s320/120825DSC_0013.JPG" width="212" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">There is still some work to complete the front suspension assembly – making up a new pair of rigid brake pipes from the calliper to the flexible hose as well as setting up the front angles – camber, castor and toe. The geometry will be much easier to work on when I have the steering rack so this will have to wait for suitable funds! At least I can amuse myself with designing the intake system in the mean time.
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<br />Tool Chimphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03370909545388377892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6383896885378961904.post-39267533081668703332012-08-06T08:44:00.000+01:002012-08-06T08:44:39.414+01:00Here's Chassis!Big news – the chassis has finally arrived! Some last minute issues with the powder coating meant that is had to be stripped and re-applied twice and readiness for this Saturday’s collection was looking doubtful, but the sub contractor managed to finish it just in time.<br />
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I arrived at Gardner Douglas just as Andy was fitting the last of the rivnuts so timing was impeccable in the end. Andy was also good enough to lend me some donor Jaguar wheels to get me rolling in advance of the proper Halibrand replicas being purchased. I was also able to borrow a spare bonnet (‘hood’ to subscribers across the pond) for digitising into the computer to help with the induction system design. Not much else to say really – I am itching to start assembling the donor parts onto the chassis, but first job is to create a reasonably accurate CAD model of it to allow (in the first instance) the exhaust design to be carried out.Tool Chimphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03370909545388377892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6383896885378961904.post-60280884844833061332012-07-30T09:08:00.002+01:002012-07-30T09:08:21.110+01:00Donor Rebuild Part 3<br />
Chassis collection is now less than a week away, so I have been concentrating on the donor component rebuild in preparation. The lower rear wishbone has two pairs of needle roller bearings for the inner pivot and these are a light press-fit into the respective bores. The gap between each pair is to allow for a grease fitting on the outside to be used during servicing and a sleeve is used to provide the running surface.<br />
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The final job on the rear uprights is the installation of the wheel bearings. As per other parts of the original car, the bearing clearance is controlled with spacers. In this case, the bearing has to be pressed into place with a known thickness spacer and the clearance measured. The target clearance can then be achieved by selecting a slightly thinner spacer of the correct thickness. The final bearing clearance is achieved by installing the driveshaft through the middle with the correct spacer in place and fully tightening the hub nut. Before this can be carried out though, the inner seal needs to be pressed in place.</div>
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<br /></div>Tool Chimphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03370909545388377892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6383896885378961904.post-44412808084045395992012-07-16T09:00:00.000+01:002012-07-30T09:04:09.178+01:00Donor Rebuild Part 2 - pivots<br />
The big new is that I finally have a completion date of the chassis which will be ready by the end of this month. The donor brakes and differential are back from reconditioning and I am progressing the rebuild of the suspension components. To this end, I have been working on the lower front wishbones and fitted the replacement bushes<br />
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In addition, I have assembled the lower pivots on the rear uprights. This is a particularly involved process as there are two taper roller bearings which must be shimmed to achieve the required endfloat. This involves a dry build with a known thickness of shim pack in place and then the float of the bearings measured. Shims can then be removed to achieve the required clearance on the bearings. It then has to be dismantled to allow final assembly with the bearings packed with grease and the outer seals to be fitted. These are very ‘old school’ where a ring of felt material is used – this has to be soaked in engine oil for at least 24 hours to ‘load’ it with lubrication before a very messy installation. Still, this is now completed and it is all held together with a temporary retainer because the lower pivot shaft does the job in the final assembly, but this can only be fitted on the car.</div>
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<span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">One last job remains on the rear uprights with setting the bearing clearances for the output flange. This has required a specific bit of tooling to be manufactured, but fortunately, I have access to a lathe to allow this. There is still some assembly, checking and shimming required on the differential which centres the brake discs in the callipers and sets the rear suspension geometry (camber and toe) however, this is more easily carried out as the parts are assembled to the chassis. Bring on the end of the month!</span>
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<br /></div>Tool Chimphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03370909545388377892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6383896885378961904.post-23613495259736485982012-05-28T16:19:00.003+01:002012-05-28T16:20:48.714+01:00Donor Rebuild Part 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">With the chassis on order as well as the differential and brakes out for reconditioning, I have turned my attention to the suspension components. I cleaned and painted these some time ago before putting them into storage and now was the time to dust them off and start reassembly. Every serviceable part (bearings, bushes seals etc.) is being replaced so after wading through various Jaguar parts catalogues, I have procured the vast majority of required components. No doubt shortfalls will be found as I progress, but I have at least been able to make a start:</span>
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<span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">First up are the drive shafts (which also double as the upper rear 'wishbones'). These are each a 3-piece affair with universal joints connecting each section</span></div>
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Next up, the front uprights. When I originally disassembled these, the stub shafts were quite badly worn at the wheel bearing locations, so new ones were purchased</div>
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The front hubs get new bearings and seals along with replacement dust shields for good measure<br />
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Finally, for this update, the front upper wishbones. I have chosen to go with polyurethane bushes to replace the original rubber items from Jaguar. There is some contention on the use of these on the Cobra Club forum, but the majority of people use them, so I figure its a good starting point and it is not too onerous to replace them after the vehicle is up and running (if that ever happens!)<br />
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<br />Tool Chimphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03370909545388377892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6383896885378961904.post-48415713664090261462012-05-08T16:37:00.000+01:002012-05-28T16:38:57.849+01:00Stoneleigh 2012Taking a break from the build (not that I have a lot from which to take a break!) I took a trip to one of the biggest kit car shows of the year. It gave me a good opportunity to look around a large number of other people's Cobras to get a better feel for some of the detail options and overall look that can be achieved starting with substantially the same shape.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh97Zh9AdjUDmZYylkV3NToGA8fZNal5rcHD9JHdRGnSR40Plfjj7KAd4ATCyA8cimkJfdpHzy6TndUM_eCLjWZdjiWZoOM-Sf7UZ00vb2uulFnwYYGdBQf3boF3u-8Ur9ldgHv6SVS23E/s1600/DSC_0058.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh97Zh9AdjUDmZYylkV3NToGA8fZNal5rcHD9JHdRGnSR40Plfjj7KAd4ATCyA8cimkJfdpHzy6TndUM_eCLjWZdjiWZoOM-Sf7UZ00vb2uulFnwYYGdBQf3boF3u-8Ur9ldgHv6SVS23E/s320/DSC_0058.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">There were also a few other vehicles that caught my eye. Maybe one day...</span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaDKpijwoiLilP90bHr7sLgtdlRh1yYgQvIiqiwytk9SnL-p-rZZVaG2FNFqBn7xUV9Mg8bVBCzM5W3i2Nf3z_1mDa_2HFOdItJu0ISgo71OBBqynAv7X1fg-LsgIlbazAslvICKdhpQs/s1600/DSC_0074.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaDKpijwoiLilP90bHr7sLgtdlRh1yYgQvIiqiwytk9SnL-p-rZZVaG2FNFqBn7xUV9Mg8bVBCzM5W3i2Nf3z_1mDa_2HFOdItJu0ISgo71OBBqynAv7X1fg-LsgIlbazAslvICKdhpQs/s320/DSC_0074.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1SIN7_gsHM1HpSweztE3Etg5rAr4lk45Usw9uV6E6Bfp_dcSV0lM5-C-JxzUeSAbk6sXJBqSoFKQ5IfOO-GAyWHiooKVLIdiLx0bfXu94eFRUsOIhJksHNpS7MpdAMyZPZ1zQ2SSiDGk/s1600/DSC_0076.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1SIN7_gsHM1HpSweztE3Etg5rAr4lk45Usw9uV6E6Bfp_dcSV0lM5-C-JxzUeSAbk6sXJBqSoFKQ5IfOO-GAyWHiooKVLIdiLx0bfXu94eFRUsOIhJksHNpS7MpdAMyZPZ1zQ2SSiDGk/s320/DSC_0076.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5Olc3kiJfMlkLhi9ifcO9zP3SfMTyBcqSq5ItVhPsh7jd36ZHnUWzVxloOlBpHURGHI1E1k09Fp9aH-spzTsJ1tUnhj0baF4xHGolScERKwSlvUTVc6lNT3KPAiqDUSR9F6fDZHkkATg/s1600/DSC_0078.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5Olc3kiJfMlkLhi9ifcO9zP3SfMTyBcqSq5ItVhPsh7jd36ZHnUWzVxloOlBpHURGHI1E1k09Fp9aH-spzTsJ1tUnhj0baF4xHGolScERKwSlvUTVc6lNT3KPAiqDUSR9F6fDZHkkATg/s320/DSC_0078.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Tool Chimphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03370909545388377892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6383896885378961904.post-70161847420128672172012-04-30T16:21:00.000+01:002012-05-28T16:27:42.568+01:00Chassis OrderedShort post but big milestone. I visited Gardner Douglas and was made very welcome by Andy and Meena. It has been a while since I went on a 'scouting trip' whilst deciding on which kit to purchase, so I had another look around and a good discussion on the options and detail of my build. The upshot of it all is that I placed a deposit for a chassis, and I am officially in the production schedule. Roll on 8 to 10 weeks!Tool Chimphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03370909545388377892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6383896885378961904.post-62993046600347533162012-03-26T10:47:00.000+01:002012-03-26T10:47:58.890+01:00Driveline<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">With the engine substantially built (minus the induction system), I have been able to turn my attention to the transmission. When this engine is used in passenger cars and if attached to a manual transmission, the clutch is actuated by a cable. Unfortunately, this is not very Cobra friendly (especially when fitted in a right hand drive car), so the typical approach that my peers take is to fit a hydraulic conversion. Never one to take the easy route, I am working on constructing my own conversion using more readily available parts rather than rely on a £200 ‘kit’ that doesn’t really fit according to some who have used it. To this end, I needed to measure the clutch actuation force at the release (throw out) bearing to allow me to calculate the mechanical advantage and movement required at the pedal. Fortunately, we have a hydraulic press at work which, when coupled to a load cell and dial gauge, proved to be very useful for collecting the required data!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4B8Qj4etKWIhIvCqWMQNou5yUE70TydN4FdL4BcTYFoAktKxH8ObgoEiFZmECLaUHKSiuWzWk7TbVGdreAKMZ-z5Ga_bHQ3UMUcjBGW8ltFVsB6F7nGDJRUW-p1xq42ICqeNHJYrnN9s/s1600/2012-03-20DSC_0048.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img aea="true" border="0" height="212px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4B8Qj4etKWIhIvCqWMQNou5yUE70TydN4FdL4BcTYFoAktKxH8ObgoEiFZmECLaUHKSiuWzWk7TbVGdreAKMZ-z5Ga_bHQ3UMUcjBGW8ltFVsB6F7nGDJRUW-p1xq42ICqeNHJYrnN9s/s320/2012-03-20DSC_0048.JPG" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMkJB2-ajYTJ3SKJtGY_2xDVkCcy9ina_Jjbtb3vmAVCJKjbo1Kw1BYgYrcGlJwg4xbQQPSeTEMX5VbSwT1WmI32lEvPsl9ZVnxBVXcEYTzvNmhhTzH_4q9i2KBBX2ayCVmO_Inhr20eA/s1600/Clutch_Effort.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img aea="true" border="0" height="202px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMkJB2-ajYTJ3SKJtGY_2xDVkCcy9ina_Jjbtb3vmAVCJKjbo1Kw1BYgYrcGlJwg4xbQQPSeTEMX5VbSwT1WmI32lEvPsl9ZVnxBVXcEYTzvNmhhTzH_4q9i2KBBX2ayCVmO_Inhr20eA/s320/Clutch_Effort.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">In addition, I was able to complete the fabrication of the engine cradle which allowed me to remove the engine from the build stand and access the rear of the block. This allowed the installation of the final core plug (at the end of the cam shaft) along with the oil gallery plugs.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizuiFFTlW0QNETYAyxOs_ZcgrPm9nrLVdWzmBwzY1A1r23d3zM_VgQYpm4qKH4dZv0TmAogiwk0LhEwWEIa4jpWUF1TZ_q9eBWuhgTARTJJ69AK5UkldluTwWxCZ94SVkJA5rcI800ZNE/s1600/2012-03-24DSC_0049.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img aea="true" border="0" height="212px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizuiFFTlW0QNETYAyxOs_ZcgrPm9nrLVdWzmBwzY1A1r23d3zM_VgQYpm4qKH4dZv0TmAogiwk0LhEwWEIa4jpWUF1TZ_q9eBWuhgTARTJJ69AK5UkldluTwWxCZ94SVkJA5rcI800ZNE/s320/2012-03-24DSC_0049.JPG" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">These were followed by the block plate, flywheel and clutch which then allowed me to ‘dial in’ the bellhousing. This is achieved by fitting a dial gauge to the clutch and measuring the runout of the bellhousing location diameter when turning the crank. The bellhousing is mounted on offset dowels which can be rotated to get the runout below the 0.005” target specified by the transmission supplier. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGiFGGKu8WWczUgaL76kL0mMIFqBvYjpoyaHlhRZFOGtEapTUGpgavSJ2Z01V0J2jzORDU6rP6LDpjeuhfl6Bx0Mk8DLMQO-ye45znOS2o2q1Pmiy3rCwmXcJq8xSV8uVXD2pe9RQw-BM/s1600/2012-03-24DSC_0051.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img aea="true" border="0" height="212px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGiFGGKu8WWczUgaL76kL0mMIFqBvYjpoyaHlhRZFOGtEapTUGpgavSJ2Z01V0J2jzORDU6rP6LDpjeuhfl6Bx0Mk8DLMQO-ye45znOS2o2q1Pmiy3rCwmXcJq8xSV8uVXD2pe9RQw-BM/s320/2012-03-24DSC_0051.JPG" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQeCTwJmGYpKP7EXaw3nsbMQPaZzlmYMKx0J8Ctyrdwt5rdXqUjL5r32qw81h3GliXOr13_YUpufTBz7horJ0eHU_vRcrlOsvuhs9Hl5dwL7Dw00ybeutYGBPo3ZpHC2nVrxp7F9MlJO8/s1600/2012-03-24DSC_0052.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img aea="true" border="0" height="212px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQeCTwJmGYpKP7EXaw3nsbMQPaZzlmYMKx0J8Ctyrdwt5rdXqUjL5r32qw81h3GliXOr13_YUpufTBz7horJ0eHU_vRcrlOsvuhs9Hl5dwL7Dw00ybeutYGBPo3ZpHC2nVrxp7F9MlJO8/s320/2012-03-24DSC_0052.JPG" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">With this completed, all that remained was to fit the transmission itself which proved to be easier than expected thanks to judicious use of my engine crane to take most of the not insignificant weight! I also fabricated a transmission support ‘foot’ at the same time as the engine cradle to allow the whole driveline assembly to be wheeled about as required. Now all it needs is a chassis around it!</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCJ6AT9d8doWHm_RXwK_BvMgpo3lE9ZIfXfF4tGFzjaeQ4xjrMixtxs-Dwp3Wv5OMW8cJ-0TqOWJFU1Hxa7MxXquJ4MLWNBsiIF9wp1f1FCUtpiza-HhNDdrpfJLy1uqRBP6Ii4ZysMXo/s1600/2012-03-24DSC_0053.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img aea="true" border="0" height="212px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCJ6AT9d8doWHm_RXwK_BvMgpo3lE9ZIfXfF4tGFzjaeQ4xjrMixtxs-Dwp3Wv5OMW8cJ-0TqOWJFU1Hxa7MxXquJ4MLWNBsiIF9wp1f1FCUtpiza-HhNDdrpfJLy1uqRBP6Ii4ZysMXo/s320/2012-03-24DSC_0053.JPG" width="320px" /></a></div></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">Next steps involve the re-assembly of the donor suspension components for which I am currently collecting all of the new bearings, seals, shims, and fasteners. I now therefore need to switch from the UNC threads used on the engine, to the UNF threads (along with a couple of fine Metric threads for good measure) used by Jaguar in the 60’s. Hopefully I won’t get them mixed up!</div>Tool Chimphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03370909545388377892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6383896885378961904.post-42104594625425065362012-03-19T10:14:00.000+00:002012-03-19T10:14:09.407+00:00Final Engine Assembly<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';"><span style="font-family: inherit;">A number of small jobs came together this weekend to see the substantial completion of the engine build (minus the intake manifold because I haven’t started making that yet!).</span></span></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><ul><li><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The addition of fuel injection requires a crank position signal so I have designed my own sensor mounting bracket and trigger disc target which were laser cut from steel.</span></span></div></li>
<li><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The mounting of the trigger disc required me to turn and machine some custom spacers to put the disc in the correct location relative to the sensor as well as aligning the crank pulley with the water pump and alternator.</span></span></div></li>
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Hv1-Lw1h93cTl6_ruKI0Y5IBkvThCIV8goTE5DGGFAAnOY1VY6xgaI_JCs5gDW1jRrxfQShW2YKNnB1u0B4WEHuBrer85E0VTynZd2pS4z1O_RKItHZ895zQzMEJxFgL05slLgDsocA/s1600/2012-03-17DSC_0040.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img aea="true" border="0" height="212px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Hv1-Lw1h93cTl6_ruKI0Y5IBkvThCIV8goTE5DGGFAAnOY1VY6xgaI_JCs5gDW1jRrxfQShW2YKNnB1u0B4WEHuBrer85E0VTynZd2pS4z1O_RKItHZ895zQzMEJxFgL05slLgDsocA/s320/2012-03-17DSC_0040.JPG" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQpH8LsI2rwzJk7ThoXLrwDdB2T0Qa3AA5h42pje_8KQ0f2ukLjCMmpVOPXVBk_R1zN-BnswvozPN7XVopPxvHEq-1Bvpa78oxgrLTWj2SmBpVdRPaNyIq9OByP6qEqQD0F_GqwC7nx_E/s1600/2012-03-17DSC_0042.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img aea="true" border="0" height="212px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQpH8LsI2rwzJk7ThoXLrwDdB2T0Qa3AA5h42pje_8KQ0f2ukLjCMmpVOPXVBk_R1zN-BnswvozPN7XVopPxvHEq-1Bvpa78oxgrLTWj2SmBpVdRPaNyIq9OByP6qEqQD0F_GqwC7nx_E/s320/2012-03-17DSC_0042.JPG" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><ul><li><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The spacers and fasteners for the alternator mounting needed modifying to suit the particular configuration of my engine which has taken some to-and-fro to get right, but this is now finally fixed.</span></span></div></li>
</ul><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY3daTfR5alnBriQSHPEZ9qmS7Dq8fEg8c58cndH4IPg4A6SnKt7G2sDVk6Q3iDq7YfPgowdSSfKyP6OXk2QM-LG74umSbJkUqkEnIpdGC5ESs_wv3pHb76Gsv52f3XgjzZKg7-QjNn4w/s1600/2012-03-17DSC_0041.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img aea="true" border="0" height="212px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY3daTfR5alnBriQSHPEZ9qmS7Dq8fEg8c58cndH4IPg4A6SnKt7G2sDVk6Q3iDq7YfPgowdSSfKyP6OXk2QM-LG74umSbJkUqkEnIpdGC5ESs_wv3pHb76Gsv52f3XgjzZKg7-QjNn4w/s320/2012-03-17DSC_0041.JPG" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><ul><li> <span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';"><span style="font-family: inherit;">With the machining carried out on the block, along with the various aftermarket parts used, I needed to check the valve to piston clearances. This involves placing some blu-tack on the top of the piston, fitting the cylinder head and rockers then turning the engine through one complete cycle. The head is then removed and the thickness of blu-tack is measured. I had just enough, so I’m glad I didn’t go for the higher ratio rockers after all!</span></span></li>
</ul><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwjsOv-f3zFqx1LPBICZ_f8ImmsbC4jYJQtmKhi5d4ePRTd7be9swyIrjChYHx-OBvJj8qrdAyYTRaqiE3MmPoGqQv8AZTmTkNAq71QBeprMGOsPUQ9VlW6rZJvw2gBlAROtFCcMrZrUc/s1600/2012-03-17DSC_0043.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img aea="true" border="0" height="212px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwjsOv-f3zFqx1LPBICZ_f8ImmsbC4jYJQtmKhi5d4ePRTd7be9swyIrjChYHx-OBvJj8qrdAyYTRaqiE3MmPoGqQv8AZTmTkNAq71QBeprMGOsPUQ9VlW6rZJvw2gBlAROtFCcMrZrUc/s320/2012-03-17DSC_0043.JPG" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><ul><li><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The crank sensor mounting bracket is also the timing pointer so with this finally mounted, I no longer needed access to the pistons (used to determine Top Dead Centre for fine tuning the timing pointer position) and could install the cylinder heads, rockers and covers.</span></span></div></li>
</ul><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvFq1PlbdOPmh5v_dZOOa7qbmlrQ4O4ZvY7DVATVC3ZY7X-0qT_m4Jsc3GfXJdn_RVCMbjWVjG6O-xjjOuw2cF-9JBZQt57Mg2KNCGpo983nb5fD3KxxwgyVIm98DpZak9Z7yvJq0jAXY/s1600/2012-03-18DSC_0045.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img aea="true" border="0" height="212px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvFq1PlbdOPmh5v_dZOOa7qbmlrQ4O4ZvY7DVATVC3ZY7X-0qT_m4Jsc3GfXJdn_RVCMbjWVjG6O-xjjOuw2cF-9JBZQt57Mg2KNCGpo983nb5fD3KxxwgyVIm98DpZak9Z7yvJq0jAXY/s320/2012-03-18DSC_0045.JPG" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUT76isinswkDZnM4-qwITW883dmsCwoh77nsZE6bca5bER_LXAWbDZ2bNioB9J6rh9YhmpZGBjkpIsKRth9-LKugCsIhLCLP24MVMYkDgwMdaMXFgHKkiFKiSpr493k1T5t1PlKJVqhU/s1600/2012-03-18DSC_0046.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img aea="true" border="0" height="212px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUT76isinswkDZnM4-qwITW883dmsCwoh77nsZE6bca5bER_LXAWbDZ2bNioB9J6rh9YhmpZGBjkpIsKRth9-LKugCsIhLCLP24MVMYkDgwMdaMXFgHKkiFKiSpr493k1T5t1PlKJVqhU/s320/2012-03-18DSC_0046.JPG" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The next task is to align the bellhousing and the fit the gearbox which cannot be done on the engine stand, so I have started fabricating an engine cradle. This picks up on the engine to chassis mounting points which will allow the engine assembly to sit on castors and crucially frees up the gearbox mounting bolts for adding the rest of the driveline. So far, I have tacked the structure together and test fitted the basic frame - this then needs to be fully welded and the wheels added before it can be pressed into service. </span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhioJPN8si1t-5FpijYFzo1b_u6nlF0SE6v7leaJdPPF2VDqy6p4a8g00wc5QI0fqQaT1j4OEiuFZP0e64O6zTqlTSokBIWQK8c7BChA5JYF11-FkLAKd3VNAaEflbwzuqRlDwBz3W7Jc4/s1600/2012-03-17DSC_0039.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img aea="true" border="0" height="212px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhioJPN8si1t-5FpijYFzo1b_u6nlF0SE6v7leaJdPPF2VDqy6p4a8g00wc5QI0fqQaT1j4OEiuFZP0e64O6zTqlTSokBIWQK8c7BChA5JYF11-FkLAKd3VNAaEflbwzuqRlDwBz3W7Jc4/s320/2012-03-17DSC_0039.JPG" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Arial;">Once this is complete, I can move on to rebuilding the donor suspension components.</span></div>Tool Chimphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03370909545388377892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6383896885378961904.post-63396867089214073142012-01-23T09:27:00.000+00:002012-01-23T09:27:06.017+00:00Engine build continuesIt has been some time since my last update, mainly because it has been some time since I made any progress. However, the planets aligned this weekend and I hade the time available, the appropriate tools to hand and most importantly, the weather smiling on me so I could continue the engine build.<br />
<br />
First task was to measure the endfloat of the camshaft and crankshaft as these values are critical for proper lubrication.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTv6ElpbfnIw0XTOtL3cPc7vb8S4kuA5qD9NcXV-RHZmnq9dVH_5mIYvsXnSr_NvhjJkZPoryIVo6M7hBjxEHWGAfQ6PFgTVa62jL07RPIyehDZQRT_UIAErP55B-XGXmn8z606xh6gio/s1600/2012-01-08DSC_0025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212px" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTv6ElpbfnIw0XTOtL3cPc7vb8S4kuA5qD9NcXV-RHZmnq9dVH_5mIYvsXnSr_NvhjJkZPoryIVo6M7hBjxEHWGAfQ6PFgTVa62jL07RPIyehDZQRT_UIAErP55B-XGXmn8z606xh6gio/s320/2012-01-08DSC_0025.JPG" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Pressing my new Dial Test Indicator (DTI) into service, I was able to check that these measurements were within specification and so could move onto ‘degreeing’ the camshaft. For those unfamiliar with the job, this means checking the cam timing against the crank angle and involves fitting an angle gauge to the crank (aligned with number 1 piston) and measuring the angle of maximum lift of the corresponding intake and exhaust tappets (lifters). These angles may not be quite as the manufacturer intended due to component tolerances of the specific engine being built and there is an amount of adjustment in the system to allow for compensation.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaHHXrxzUzfRC2fFkA6hzAwePhnnG-H0kYY2s_lnt-fdWmKGOw4tkq4FrWhyBgvJu-vzaavsqXiIg09s4R2tQHY2qElSXUfNIOJI2C0jmNIPtHE1zeU2hq15l0Uzqe7Snf3TJJPmIOyiE/s1600/2012-01-22DSC_0026.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212px" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaHHXrxzUzfRC2fFkA6hzAwePhnnG-H0kYY2s_lnt-fdWmKGOw4tkq4FrWhyBgvJu-vzaavsqXiIg09s4R2tQHY2qElSXUfNIOJI2C0jmNIPtHE1zeU2hq15l0Uzqe7Snf3TJJPmIOyiE/s320/2012-01-22DSC_0026.JPG" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span id="goog_195768387"></span><span id="goog_195768388"></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">My cam timing came out to be around 1.5 degrees late, but since the three adjustment positions I had available it 0, +4 degrees or -4 degrees (I have not seen a vernier cam sprocket for these engines that will fit under the stock timing cover), this was a close as I was going to get! Next up was fitting the oil pump which needed modification in order for the mounting bolts to sit flat. Fortunately, the milling machine at work had been available for such a job and made light work of the task.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKut4vZ_1DuaQGXsE3A_p1V2nXsJVfHKRsZEJvuLYvB6x9pCylJUz9OyAEVALitFoVR6QTV37KdJiY2QB-6wD9P5GIGCgRqXIpu-KZZbBYTk9Txx8olhlzZsUaHS5ujhKjNhrhsBpJTIQ/s1600/2012-01-22DSC_0028.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212px" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKut4vZ_1DuaQGXsE3A_p1V2nXsJVfHKRsZEJvuLYvB6x9pCylJUz9OyAEVALitFoVR6QTV37KdJiY2QB-6wD9P5GIGCgRqXIpu-KZZbBYTk9Txx8olhlzZsUaHS5ujhKjNhrhsBpJTIQ/s320/2012-01-22DSC_0028.JPG" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: left;">Fitting the oil pickup pipe finished off that part of the assembly and with one last torque check of the bolts, I could move onto closing up the oily bits of the engine.This started with the timing chain cover then the sump followed by the water pump. These were relatively simple tasks, but since I am using a random collection of original equipment, reproduction and aftermarket parts, some of the fastener kits don’t have the correct bolts so I need to purchase some additional hardware before I can finish this off.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb6X54-p1V_KBQCAQe0WXmelgfIKkILjU6IzLaF7TQz6ky5ErSYyi-t8Of9tN3CJmenAM9aCi7aFgH1655v9HSnyQSILT4XWJnLjFckqR5_8GF-hq2_wI5jTGkUUEyoi2TwLiXkhNpC14/s1600/2012-01-22DSC_0027.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212px" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb6X54-p1V_KBQCAQe0WXmelgfIKkILjU6IzLaF7TQz6ky5ErSYyi-t8Of9tN3CJmenAM9aCi7aFgH1655v9HSnyQSILT4XWJnLjFckqR5_8GF-hq2_wI5jTGkUUEyoi2TwLiXkhNpC14/s320/2012-01-22DSC_0027.JPG" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjBv3d7cj_qHumE2hUgDnrn34cZvPiKvTMp87-kbPgFFyO1wG906A6-9PgcwrBCLjDY_YZ8m27kwf5RWpJ5E8CfTp_KjxJMjtTVO4OyFz9tx5-YqLXRKl9Mq737upiNPdqwBgQysd_jxM/s1600/2012-01-22DSC_0029.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212px" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjBv3d7cj_qHumE2hUgDnrn34cZvPiKvTMp87-kbPgFFyO1wG906A6-9PgcwrBCLjDY_YZ8m27kwf5RWpJ5E8CfTp_KjxJMjtTVO4OyFz9tx5-YqLXRKl9Mq737upiNPdqwBgQysd_jxM/s320/2012-01-22DSC_0029.JPG" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC-kbbq8yq8XXdRITK2nXKZDhCN3dmzb2MySZVZzF3YO1AinAWFfcw9JYJh8ldHKR1Y44jL6KW1UVJkLetWjmIhOmU0oAwb9IDWnw3LkPvKpHzMeB7IRNYR6yd5mlPQXVNFS4hlb9vmdA/s1600/2012-01-22DSC_0030.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212px" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC-kbbq8yq8XXdRITK2nXKZDhCN3dmzb2MySZVZzF3YO1AinAWFfcw9JYJh8ldHKR1Y44jL6KW1UVJkLetWjmIhOmU0oAwb9IDWnw3LkPvKpHzMeB7IRNYR6yd5mlPQXVNFS4hlb9vmdA/s320/2012-01-22DSC_0030.JPG" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">I am now at the stage where I need to procure the parts I have designed for adding the fuel injection components before I can progress the engine build any further. I suspect it may be a little while before the planets align again, so it is not too much of a rush!</div>Tool Chimphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03370909545388377892noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6383896885378961904.post-47103572074848801192011-11-07T09:09:00.000+00:002011-11-07T09:09:27.092+00:00Virtual Cobra Build<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">With another batch of engine parts delivered, I have been progressing the block build up although missing a couple of vital items off the order means I am not as far as I could have been! Still, it gives me the chance to prepare the parts properly while I wait so I have colour matched the timing cover and water pump to the block.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC1TXRHdrf-MwQuajpBjnUGZdL4PhQU0HYAdk4L4L86kHijWvhEPKmwybvL3sXL9oWNE8Q6PJEupYNgrXVA9auQfnPb9STVQUkxIbot5vnpVg-YquenPEX8nSKlAfO0JjwcER4pEyHiBw/s1600/2011-11-06DSC_0018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212px" ida="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC1TXRHdrf-MwQuajpBjnUGZdL4PhQU0HYAdk4L4L86kHijWvhEPKmwybvL3sXL9oWNE8Q6PJEupYNgrXVA9auQfnPb9STVQUkxIbot5vnpVg-YquenPEX8nSKlAfO0JjwcER4pEyHiBw/s320/2011-11-06DSC_0018.JPG" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In addition, I have been working on the installation of a vital part of the fuel injection system – the crank position sensor. Since the stock version of this part is prohibitively expensive to buy new and there aren’t many Mustangs in scrap yards around here, I have bought a more readily available standard component and designed a combined bracket and timing pointer along with a suitable trigger wheel.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW0O9jq6SHf6KdsqgFsrcbUXtxirAVhXbV_7PKcWeJzHX-Wr_fc_gZW9AyHQOvTMRh7ToupsDheak23Dzmn66eScbhqg7z2dlesCj7qmzoTI58jTCUeI1_Cx6HwIxZl-TCidKgTr8dNYM/s1600/crank_posn_snr_tmng_pntr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="226px" ida="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW0O9jq6SHf6KdsqgFsrcbUXtxirAVhXbV_7PKcWeJzHX-Wr_fc_gZW9AyHQOvTMRh7ToupsDheak23Dzmn66eScbhqg7z2dlesCj7qmzoTI58jTCUeI1_Cx6HwIxZl-TCidKgTr8dNYM/s320/crank_posn_snr_tmng_pntr.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Other ‘virtual’ progress has been around the design of the instruments and I have decided that an illumination test is required before committing to a proper PCB. I therefore need to mock up the instrument face and back lighting to ensure I have sufficient brightness to meet the Individual Vehicle Approval (IVA) test requirements. To this end I have designed a first pass circuit (which I should be able to build at work thanks to the prototype PCB facility here at work) and a ‘mask’ to direct the light. This is designed to be water jet cut along with the timing pointer components and some other instrument parts so I am aiming to group these together and procure them in the near future. Once these are in, I can build and test a number of aspects of the design before finalising the board design and getting it manufactured properly.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdOEDk8ndWQDDVC3JuoWpt8yJLrB-_ViWvTqvB3QZt-iVc9i_YMI3DM8tWuPA0q-KnBSlK_rPkcQ8k90DkRDQJObjZ9GbO4D6yRksUJj63spp0jmAof91ZWydhoCwlbx8Fwe9OrttLnHk/s1600/elc-01-0002_111107.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="202px" ida="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdOEDk8ndWQDDVC3JuoWpt8yJLrB-_ViWvTqvB3QZt-iVc9i_YMI3DM8tWuPA0q-KnBSlK_rPkcQ8k90DkRDQJObjZ9GbO4D6yRksUJj63spp0jmAof91ZWydhoCwlbx8Fwe9OrttLnHk/s320/elc-01-0002_111107.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;"><br />
</div>Tool Chimphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03370909545388377892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6383896885378961904.post-6777924301531938102011-10-17T11:01:00.000+01:002011-10-17T11:01:47.124+01:00Engine build up - part 1With a recent bout of reasonable weather, I have been able to start assembling the bare block back into a short engine. First job was to install the cam bearings which required a quick measurement of the bores before using my home made tooling to wind them in. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPsVsxQXG20gWc0moyPYOHjBJnrdH863kIB2NXhgGgJ_KV5-ia-dciS4ZTq8gHtptQ78vTiYMBJ2L65cU11d3dyy8zOldbn-JXbpS2E3f1X0Jv1Fl3zUnQ0By7pehsBdrtE2P3_4vGHuc/s1600/2011-10-15DSC_0011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPsVsxQXG20gWc0moyPYOHjBJnrdH863kIB2NXhgGgJ_KV5-ia-dciS4ZTq8gHtptQ78vTiYMBJ2L65cU11d3dyy8zOldbn-JXbpS2E3f1X0Jv1Fl3zUnQ0By7pehsBdrtE2P3_4vGHuc/s320/2011-10-15DSC_0011.JPG" width="320px" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It was a little tricky at first, but by the time I got to the last bearing, I had it down to a fine art! With these installed, I could lubricate the cam and slide it home as this is an easier operation without the crank in position. </div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiENzE5o3L4VG7pYWL2HM2LBW3ujCJL378PmIueAPvkFl1Nq9_LnXBeQc0aopzBiLYiI4THbBqtzWHuGsGj3eeU_SxZpkgmcl8zojkoqzxeFEbvvoNfiyfS0E1ZD5OnNygVH0A-TLzK24/s1600/2011-10-15DSC_0012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiENzE5o3L4VG7pYWL2HM2LBW3ujCJL378PmIueAPvkFl1Nq9_LnXBeQc0aopzBiLYiI4THbBqtzWHuGsGj3eeU_SxZpkgmcl8zojkoqzxeFEbvvoNfiyfS0E1ZD5OnNygVH0A-TLzK24/s320/2011-10-15DSC_0012.JPG" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp30LbmI5JQXvfNU8U_fKtesM29IESBgAmVR47YvK_TR0Ug-0kaH5i3hJQmxb7R9tAbvbJBIjh8aJgvotYAQc5MCvp8SlDHiwIxph8CQpj6lMwBBIY0IjtJpv8SLuE9SZprK8dW6FZ4G0/s1600/2011-10-15DSC_0013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp30LbmI5JQXvfNU8U_fKtesM29IESBgAmVR47YvK_TR0Ug-0kaH5i3hJQmxb7R9tAbvbJBIjh8aJgvotYAQc5MCvp8SlDHiwIxph8CQpj6lMwBBIY0IjtJpv8SLuE9SZprK8dW6FZ4G0/s320/2011-10-15DSC_0013.JPG" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next up was the crank itself starting with the main bearings and I checked the actual oil clearance using plastigauge (a first for me!). With all well and the crank spinning freely, I could move onto the pistons. A couple of the new rings needed filing to get the correct end gap, but for the most part they dropped in without hassle, forming the short block.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcNSM0wyeCyiMTp__8ymXzqbUHN9ybLwnLW3bQfVZ-UMtq4qU1aYwAi0qfrFhuOXhWO9wG9XyrqLXrFbHGNOM1ZeJ8mzbr9lV67O_2Q0TTZsi2vW9QcEPCgPNncDDgxUZQ4ZTbEzwBlTI/s1600/2011-10-15DSC_0014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcNSM0wyeCyiMTp__8ymXzqbUHN9ybLwnLW3bQfVZ-UMtq4qU1aYwAi0qfrFhuOXhWO9wG9XyrqLXrFbHGNOM1ZeJ8mzbr9lV67O_2Q0TTZsi2vW9QcEPCgPNncDDgxUZQ4ZTbEzwBlTI/s320/2011-10-15DSC_0014.JPG" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO2Gl7ns_cxzYrK9Hm4xdgiAehmpE4vuhhSCibpoi9P7kYHr0RgnBarqDb1zBEPGAbxHHeSGS0lnYgCinAVu9of7TnHbKQBvQnmHxo0adGn451kdOxpPG4vwmKA62BnrHtFAlVtpUcamw/s1600/2011-10-15DSC_0015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO2Gl7ns_cxzYrK9Hm4xdgiAehmpE4vuhhSCibpoi9P7kYHr0RgnBarqDb1zBEPGAbxHHeSGS0lnYgCinAVu9of7TnHbKQBvQnmHxo0adGn451kdOxpPG4vwmKA62BnrHtFAlVtpUcamw/s320/2011-10-15DSC_0015.JPG" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">With the amount of machining carried out on the block, along with aftermarket heads and tappets (‘lifters’ for the subscribers on the other side of the Atlantic) I am unable to rely on the stock pushrod length being correct. I have therefore procured an adjustable pushrod which I used to check the required length. This involved marking the tops of two valves and mocking up the top end then turning the engine through one complete cycle. This leaves a witness mark on the end of the valves which needs to be centred across the tip. The adjustable pushrod is wound in or out to centre the mark then the process is repeated and checked for a pair of valves (intake and exhaust) on each cylinder head. Now I have determined the required pushrod length, I can go ahead with purchasing them and the full engine build can continue.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaTNLJgsdsdnH6RelVc6dNAhyphenhyphen4R_k1gGf3UWLNWAW7ORzobF7tQ17otv7pEar-3pwJGub7Fara031JWH1laAy20y-iQF4SstaoNYVELfg_q94I_WkpXGuKYHNP03p8T-o1aYkXL0jzYBo/s1600/2011-10-15DSC_0016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaTNLJgsdsdnH6RelVc6dNAhyphenhyphen4R_k1gGf3UWLNWAW7ORzobF7tQ17otv7pEar-3pwJGub7Fara031JWH1laAy20y-iQF4SstaoNYVELfg_q94I_WkpXGuKYHNP03p8T-o1aYkXL0jzYBo/s320/2011-10-15DSC_0016.JPG" width="212px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx2kJrTypmsiEH_OQzmT9vyJn-1yv5fuciXEtUp3yx2qfB-IMW9_dsfV_S23tqx8zFth2b8KKrGRi_C5dJI3QSB2cFFn7mDvrMCjblPRE8DnZZdHqwJw5cwKv1EFsafx41FU5exPUkOwA/s1600/2011-10-15DSC_0017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx2kJrTypmsiEH_OQzmT9vyJn-1yv5fuciXEtUp3yx2qfB-IMW9_dsfV_S23tqx8zFth2b8KKrGRi_C5dJI3QSB2cFFn7mDvrMCjblPRE8DnZZdHqwJw5cwKv1EFsafx41FU5exPUkOwA/s320/2011-10-15DSC_0017.JPG" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In addition to this, I have been creating a CAD model of the engine as accurately as I can which will aid me in the design of the intake and exhaust manifolds. I currently have a virtual engine in a similar state to the real one as the two need to be built in parallel. The key part missing at the moment is a rocker cover model as this will determine the location of the intake manifold plenums and routing of the corresponding tracts. I will be procuring this part along with the pushrods to help progress this part of the build.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijw3l_hZRPAJicAGlZD3wyABouo7vuGiGpDX1GZ5P7ufJ8rKjUdFNYpF1AS9ir9fYA-SazhzL1QzO1dm2Ipi2eIxCz5m_5hseQX4TaSouKulXUOZI8kYuZRjFy09lBXYNpUzCWdkRPnDU/s1600/gd427_assy_long_engine_111017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="226px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijw3l_hZRPAJicAGlZD3wyABouo7vuGiGpDX1GZ5P7ufJ8rKjUdFNYpF1AS9ir9fYA-SazhzL1QzO1dm2Ipi2eIxCz5m_5hseQX4TaSouKulXUOZI8kYuZRjFy09lBXYNpUzCWdkRPnDU/s320/gd427_assy_long_engine_111017.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSrTmiKHt92nkaB2_ZmaVj7r7YXuz3l9MmJMV4VPjETNPMBkIHgcc7fo3G5WZYzCDMAviG41scldEH_UDW0mBphMHHMqQpfHjzlDPQK_2G6CaqOqZJdmeXmCndqzHQ4P6x9e59w_GjP30/s1600/gd427_assy_long_eng_02_111017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="226px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSrTmiKHt92nkaB2_ZmaVj7r7YXuz3l9MmJMV4VPjETNPMBkIHgcc7fo3G5WZYzCDMAviG41scldEH_UDW0mBphMHHMqQpfHjzlDPQK_2G6CaqOqZJdmeXmCndqzHQ4P6x9e59w_GjP30/s320/gd427_assy_long_eng_02_111017.jpg" width="320px" /></a></div>Tool Chimphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03370909545388377892noreply@blogger.com0